Pendelton C. Wallace  Author, Adventurer
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Sailing on the Tall Ship Bill of Rights

8/29/2014

23 Comments

 
PictureThe Schooner Bill of Rights
She was schooner rigged and rakish with a long and lithesome hull

And we flew the pretty colours of the crossbones and the skull. (John Masefield).

Well, not quite. She was schooner rigged and rakish, but she was a fishing schooner, not a Tarry Buccaneer. The Bill of Rights is a replica of an 1850’s Gran Banks schooner that was built in 1971.

The Grand Banks schooners were built in the era of iron men and wooden ships. These sturdy vessels sailed from ports like Glouster, Massachusetts to the Grand Banks, off of Canada’s Nova Scotia. They were built to withstand the worst that the North Atlantic could throw at them, but they still needed a turn of speed.

They sailed to their fishing grounds with a deck load of dories, then put the dories into the water with a crew of two men each. The men rowed off and fished with baited lines for the cod that swarmed the Banks. When the dories were full, the men rowed back to the mother ship, unloaded and went out again until the schooner could hold no more.

Then came the need for speed. Each captain put the pedal to the metal to be the first back with his catch. The first one in got the best price.

There were epic schooner races in the Nineteenth Century between these stalwart fishermen. The return of the fleet was cause for major celebration in their home ports.

This is the legacy of the Bill of Rights. She is one hundred and thirty-seven feet long and her masts soar one hundred and ten feet into the blue Pacific sky. She was built in Maine as a private yacht, an exact replica of her 1850 predecessor. She was so accurate that she was built without an engine. A two hundred and ten Caterpillar diesel was added years later.

Unfortunately, her owners sold her during a bitter divorce. Her yacht interior was ripped out and she was refitted as a sail training vessel. The forward cabin was turned into a dormitory with sixteen berths. Her main saloon was repurposed as a class room.

She sailed the coast of Maine and New England for years as a sail training vessel, taking youngsters to sea to teach them the virtues of seamanship and marine biology. In 1998 she was sold to the Los Angeles Maritime Institute (LAMI) and sailed through the Panama Canal to the West Coast. She served for many years in LA as a sail training vessel, floating classroom and good will ambassador.

LAMI built two new barkentines (big sailing ships) and the Bill was considered surplus and leased to another organization, who shall remain nameless. This organization didn’t do well by her and she fell into disrepair. Finally, in 2013, she was put into the yard for repairs and the owners couldn’t pay the bill. They defaulted on their lease and LAMI came back into possession of the deteriorating ship.

A group of tall ship lovers in Chula Vista came to the rescue. They formed the South Bay Sailing Association, a non-profit organization, and purchased the ship from LAMI for the yard bill and took over the mortgage. After almost a year of volunteers working on her, she is back in sailing shape and once again fulfilling her mission out of the port of Chula Vista.


PictureCrew Quarters
Captain Tom asked me to help crew her as she sailed from San Diego to Los Angeles for the Tall Ships Festival LA. How could I refuse? I’ve dreamed about sailing such a ship since I was knee high to a jelly fish.

Dawn delivered me to the Bill of Rights on Monday night. She was such a cute mother hen. I had my bed roll, sea bag and, of course, my computer bag. I thought she was going to pin a note on my chest that read “My name is Penn. If lost please call (425) 877-3081.”

It was about 11 pm when I came aboard and the rest of the crew already had the lights out. We had been to the boat earlier in the day to make up my bunk, so I knew where I was sleeping.

I pulled out my trusty pocket flash light and made my way to my bunk. In a moment, I was undressed and snuggled down, surrounded by a cacaphone of snoring.

Muster was at five am. I rolled out of bed in the dark and turned on a light. The rest of the crew was stirring. In all, there were twelve hearty souls making the passage.

By six am, we had the boarding ladder hoisted aboard, the engine fired up and were ready to cast off. A couple of other volunteers came to help us depart. We dropped our moorings, backed out of the marina slip, and headed up the bay as the sun broke the horizon.

It is along, torturous trip up a narrow channel to get to the deep water of the North Bay. After we crossed under the Coronado Bridge, the water deepens and I felt more at ease. It took two and a half hours for us to make it to the mid-channel marker off of Point Loma and the open ocean.

I had never sailed on this ship before. I barely knew the captain. Yet, when the watch list was posted, I was listed as second mate. That meant I was in charge of the second watch. As Swannie, the bos’un, said, “The captain’s in charge of the ship, you’re in charge of the watch.” That meant I had to assign jobs, follow up to see that they were done and be the liaison between the captain and the crew.

I watched the first watch and learned fast. Remembering how Papa would do it, I took charge and assigned duties. Since I seemed to be in charge, the crew acceded to my wishes and everything went well. I didn’t have a clue as to what I was doing, but it all seemed to work out.

Once in the open ocean, we hoisted the sails. This was much different than raising the sails on the Victory or any other modern boat. It was all done by hand.

First we raised the stays’l, which the crew called “the jumbo.” No one knew why it was called that, it just was. Maybe it’s just because it’s a big sail. The jumbo
, which is on a boom of its own, is the sail immediately in front of the foremast.  The stays’l runs up the fore stay, or the heavy wire, that holds up the mast.

Now, I was taught that you raised the furthest aft sail first, then worked your way forward. We were raising a sail forward of the main mast first. Oh well, watch and learn . . .


PictureOn Deck
To raise the sail, three men took hold of the halyard, another took the downhaul and two more stood by to handle the sheets. I was assigned to the preventer, a line which gets attached to the boom to keep it from crashing over to the other side of the boat if the helmsman gets sloppy.

“Heave,” the first mate called. The men on the halyard pulled on their line and the sail crawled up the stay. Then it got stuck.

“We need a cowboy,” Don (the first mate) bellowed. (Actually, he didn’t really bellow. He is very soft spoken, it just sounds better when I say “bellowed.”) Don looks the part of a first mate. He is tall and thin, with gray mutton chop side burns. He’d be perfectly at home on a Nineteenth Century windjammer. (Oops! I guess he is.)

Matt, one of the younger crew members (we were a geriatric boat, the average age being 63) donned his safety gear, hooked his lifeline to the whisker stays and climbed out on the boom to free the jammed sail. Standing with one foot on each stay (two inch thick wire ropes), astraddle the boom ten feet above the water and about twenty feet in front of the boat, Matt wrangled the sail free and it flew up the stay.

The crew on the sheets sheeted it in and I rigged the preventer. Not a fast operation, but it went well.

Raising the fores’l and main were no easy tasks either.

The Bill is a gaff rigged schooner. That means that there is a boom both above and below the sail. The gaff boom is a tree that has been cut to the proper dimension. We had to haul this tree to the top of the mast with a huge, heavy sail hanging below it. All without the benefit of winches.

The halyard is a heavy line that runs through a block on the deck. The “primary,” or lead man on the halyard, pulls the line down and the three or four men on the other side of the block take up the slack. As the gaff works its way up the mast, it becomes harder to haul in the halyard. More and more sail weight and, finally, the weight of the boom, is added to the equation.

The primary must grab the line and lean back with all of his body weight (that’s why they eventually made me primary, I have plenty of body weight.) yelling “Heave.” The line gives a foot or two and, as the primary bounces back up to a standing position, the rest of the halyardmen heave in the slack. In this manner, the gaff inches its way up the mast.

The mate stands behind the sail and watches the progress. Sometimes the peak (or outside end) of the gaff gets ahead of the throat or visa versa. At these times he yells “belay hauling the peak” and we stop heaving. When the throat has caught up, he yells for us to haul again.

It took about forty-five minutes to get the sails on her. Then we motor sailed northwest up the coast. Beating into the wind and current we only made about four or five knots. We were in no hurry. It’s about a twenty hour run up the coast. We didn’t want to arrive in LA’s harbor, San Pedro, in the dark.

My watch came on deck at 11am. I assigned jobs and made my way aft to the quarter deck to watch the boat sail. Each hour we changed bow watches so that they deck hands didn’t get too tired.


PictureA Revolutionary War Privateer Replica
All went smoothly and we sailed on through the day. I caught a nap after our watch because I knew the night would be interrupted. We were “watch and watch.” That means each watch was on duty for four hours, then off duty for four hours. You only had four hours to get some sleep during the night watches, then you were called back on deck.

I have written before about how I hate night watches. It was better on the Bill because you had six other watch keepers up with you, but it still sucks. The boredom of the night was broken by conversation with my fellow sailors and rotating lookouts, etc, but it was still a long night.

We were called to the deck at 3 am for our second night watch. When I came on deck, we were off of Long Beach. Several oil rigs were lit up like Christmas trees. The shore was ablaze with lights.

We had to work our way into the channel in the dark. The channel is marked by buoys with red and green lights. The red is on our starboard, or right, side as we approach the harbor from the sea. The problem was, that it was all but impossible to make out the buoy lights against the bright city lights behind them.

We were also way ahead of schedule. We had struck the sails before dark, but motored along on slow speed. When my watch came on deck, the captain decided to slow the engine down to idle. We slugged along with just enough speed to maintain steerage way.

The hours passed slowly and there was an air of tension on deck. Other vessels appeared and disappeared in the dark. This is the busiest port on the West Coast, traffic was constant, even in the dark of night.

The night was warm. I put on jeans and a sweat shirt and wore my heavy coat, but I never zipped it up. This was a far cry from the cold night watches we had coming down the coast from Seattle in the Victory.

Finally, the sun crept over the horizon and we were free to enter the harbor.

In the light of day, we could see the buoys and light towers that eluded us in the dark. We motored into the harbor and followed the channel to the cruise ship terminal, where we would be docking.

At this point, I’m going to put in a disclaimer. The Tall Ship Festival was not well organized. I’m not going to complain or blame anyone, it just didn’t come off as promised.

That being said, when we got to the dock, the promised berth was not ready for us. There were supposed to be people on the dock waiting to receive our lines. There weren’t.

We put two men ashore with the dinghy and tied to a barge that was attached to the dock. A “small” schooner (she was eighty-five feet long) rafted up to us and we invited their crew to breakfast.

After breakfast, I headed to the forward cabin for another nap only to be awakened a couple of hours later with the call “All idle hands to unmoor ship.”

It was time for the Tall Ships parade. What a gas!


PictureThe Rubber Ducky
Did I mention the rubber ducky? They had a forty foot tall rubber ducky leading the parade. The ducky is such a silly thing that it was an attraction all in itself. Thousands of people who probably weren’t that interested in tall ships flocked to the water front to have their picture taken with the giant ducky.

We dropped our mooring lines and headed back out to sea. Outside the break water, we waited around as fourteen other tall ships gathered and sorted themselves into parade order. We were ship number five.

What a sight to see. A flotilla of tall ships dodging and weaving in and out, sails raised, putting themselves in line. Then we proceeded into the harbor and sailed through the port to a big bridge that marked the end of the parade route.

In the turning basin under the bridge, we doused the sails and prepared to moor the ship. The only problem was that the schooner American Pride got to our berth before us. After a couple of cell phone conversations, it was decided that we would raft up with the slightly larger schooner.

The festivals disorganization impacted us. We were supposed to take two loads of passengers a day sailing. We never left the dock. We were supposed to allow the public to board the ship and do tours but the festival couldn’t arrange gang planks that met Coast Guard approval.

We got to LA on Tuesday. On Friday they finally got a berth for us where we could put our boarding steps on a barge to allow passengers to board.

Since we weren’t taking the boat out all week they didn’t need me to help handle the ship. I had a sale on my house pending and we couldn’t get an Internet connection on the dock, I decided to go home.

I called Dawn and asked her to drive to LA to pick me up. She dropped everything and drove the two hour drive in four hours. Traffic was horrible and we didn’t know how to get her from the freeway to the docks. Finally she persevered and made it to the harbor.

Bob and Glen bummed a ride home with us. Dawn picked us all up on Harbor Boulevard. It was a long walk from the docks to the street carrying my heavy sea bag and computer bag. I was wiped out.

I hadn’t had a shower since I left Chula Vista. The showers were a two mile walk down the road and I can’t walk with my bum knee. There was supposed to be a trolley, but when I went out and waited at the stop, it never came.

After a shower on board the Victory, we drove up to Point Loma to pick Odin up from our friend Tina’s house. We stopped at an Outback Steak House along the way for dinner, then headed home for a blissful night’s sleep in my own cozy bunk.

Would I do it again? You betch! As a matter of fact, I’m helping take the boat up to San Diego this week for San Diego’s Festival of Sail. Then they have another gig in Dana Point in September. I may sign on for that too.


23 Comments

Getting a New Life

8/18/2014

3 Comments

 

Party Time at Chula Vista Marina

On With Our Story . . .

PictureThe Victory in her new home
We’ve been in San Diego two weeks now and I don’t have anything exciting to report. We are settling in, learning our surroundings and getting in touch with family and old friends. It’s a shock to the system, being back in the USA. We have to relearn all the things we un-learned in Mexico.

Going to the grocery store was a strange experience. I walked in and it didn’t look that much different from the Mega or Chedraui supermarkets in La Paz. But I could read the labels on the products and there were all the old familiar brands. In the meat department, there were the cuts of meat that I’d grown up with.

There were many food items that we just couldn’t get in Mexico. In San Diego, they are available in abundance. I felt like a kid in a candy store. I wanted one of those and one of those and one of these over here

Dawn had a similar experience. I went to the store a couple of times before she went. I watched her as she stood in the middle of an aisle with her mouth open.  She did a three hundred and sixty degree turn, just taking in the sheer variety of the items on the shelf.

“Here’s Chinese mustard. I can make cole slaw again,” she said.  She had to physically touch every item on the shelf that she had coveted in Mexico but was unable to get.

We’re on a tight budget and we had the boat stocked with month’s worth of food, so we’re spending the bare minimum for fresh items. However, I have been having a cherry orgy. I love cherries and haven’t had any in two years. They’re in season and relatively inexpensive so I’ve gone wild.

Driving in the US is another experience. I have to catch myself all the time. If I drove here like I drove in Mexico, I’d have an endless series of traffic tickets. In Mexico it’s “every man for himself.” You kinda, sorta pay attention to traffic laws, but they’re really just suggestions. If it’s easier to go down a one way street the wrong way for a block, then go ahead. No one’s going to complain. Don’t bother with stop signs. If you stop, you’re likely to get rear ended.

We learned the unofficial rule for stop signs in Mexico. If it is a four way stop and there are no cars coming the other way, you don’t have to stop. If it’s a two-way stop, then you must stop. Of course, this isn’t the law that the police enforce, it’s just the rule of thumb that the drivers obey.

So, I find myself consciously thinking “Careful, you’re not driving in Mexico anymore.” Maybe it’s making me a better driver.

Most of our days are taken up looking for jobs. The job search itself is a full-time job. We came north because we both need medical attention. We need health insurance to afford the care. To have health care, we need to either have jobs that provide coverage or pay enough that we can afford to buy it.

Ergo, we are in the job market. I never thought I’d be looking for a job again, but I’m back on the tread mill. The market looks good here, there are lots of jobs advertised. I’ve been sending out resumes but haven’t heard back from anybody yet. How come they’re not breaking down my door with job offers?

Dawn is, likewise, sending out bunches of resumes. It’s only a matter of time. We will eventually find jobs and get back into the swing of the American Way.


PictureChula Vista Marina
Moorage in San Diego is ridiculously expensive. I guess the owners figure that we’re all rich yachties and they can take advantage of us. We are in the least expensive marina I could find. We’re tucked away way down south in Chula Vista, far from the center of any boating activities. I’m paying more than double here what I paid in Seattle. It’s outrageous.

However, it’s a really pretty marina. There’s a city park wrapped around the marina and an RV resort next door. The RV resort is owned by the same people, so we get the use of their facilities.

Their facilities include a pool, spa, exercise room and a much better Laundromat that we have in the marina. We take our clothes over there to wash and there’s a lawn where Odin can lay in real grass. Real grass is a treat for him, having lived for the last two years in a country where grass doesn’t exist. He’s used to laying in a clear patch of dirt.

The marina put on a “thank you” party with some of that exorbitant amount of money that we’ve been paying them. It was really quite fun. They had “Joe and the Island Band” playing Jimmy Buffet tunes and reggae with some old-time rock and roll thrown in. The marina provided a BBQ with really nicely done ribs, potato salad and baked beans. Oh, and did I mention the free bar?

There must have been a couple of hundred people there. Many RV resort people were there too. As a matter of fact, there were probably more RVers than boaters. But we all had a good time, eatin’, dancin’ and rockin’ the night away.

That was last weekend. This weekend, the city of Chula Vista decided to outdo the marina. We had the Chula Vista Harbor Fest at the park that surrounds the marina. It was sheer chaos. Thousands of people descended on our quiet little part of the world. Cars were parked on the street all the way up to the freeway. Crowds mobbed the park.

There were all sorts of family activities. Laser tag, bouncing castles and face painting for the kids, three band stands for the adults, vendor booths (with a really good BBQ place), a sea food “taste of Chula Vista” and lots of bars.

You could load yourself down with the free give aways. Of course, we didn’t take much home, we live on a boat. Where would we put it?

I absolutely exhausted myself walking around the park. I had to stop twice on the way home. My knee is bothering me so much that I can’t take that much walking. We got back to the boat and I died.

A pain pill and a Margarita helped. We sat in the cockpit and listened to the music until they shut it down at about eight pm.

I can’t give you an update without letting you know how the writing is going.

I’m well into The Mexican Connection. This is a suspense novel about the Mexican drug wars. Our heroes get lured to Mexico and find themselves in the middle of a war between rival drug cartels.

I’m most of the way through. I’ve got over 65,000 words so far. I expect that I can finish the story in about another 10,000 words. I hope to have it done by the end of the month.

That’s the first draft. Then comes the endless editing, proof reading, designing the cover, designing the interior and all of the hundreds of other task that come with publishing a book.  But I’m making good progress and on track for publishing The Mexican Connection this fall.


PictureThe Bill of Rights
Now for the big news. I’ve kept the best for last.

I have been asked to crew on the one hundred thirty-seven foot schooner, The Bill of Rights, this week. We’re sailing her up to Los Angles for a tall ships festival, then we’ll enter a schooner race from Los Angeles to San Diego to bring her back.

The Bill of Rights is a beautiful ship based here in Chula Vista. She was built in 1970 as a replica of an old-time sailing ship. She didn’t have an engine and has no winches or modern equipment. This is sailing as it was in the 1850’s.

I should confess that they added a two hundred and fifty horsepower Caterpillar diesel engine recently, so we’re not totally at the mercy of wind and current.

I’m a little concerned with the size and complexity of the vessel. I would never captain such a ship, but I’ll be a lowly deck hand so I should be all right.

You know the term “learning the ropes?” That came from sailing. There are miles and miles of ropes (lines) on The Bill of Rights. I will need to learn what each one is for.

She is a gaff-rigged schooner. That means she has two masts, the front mast shorter than the aft mast. She also as two booms on each of her two masts. One boom is under the sail, like on a “regular” sail boat. The other boom is on top of the sail. The sail is suspended between the two booms.

This is an old-fashioned rig. You don’t see it much anymore for several reasons. First of all, it does not go to windward as well as a modern Marconi rigged sail. (That’s the triangular shaped sails you’re used to seeing.) Secondly, there is much more weight aloft, requiring more ballast and making her a heavier boat. Thirdly, it takes more crew to handle the sails.

When we raise the sails, we’re going to have to hoist the gaff boom from the bottom of the mast to the top. This is a very large, heavy piece of wood. It’s actually a tree trunk. We have no winches, a gang of five or six men will heave on a line to lift it to the top of the mast.

When we’re trimming the sails, we will do it by hand too. On most modern boats, we have winches to give us mechanical advantage and make the job of trimming the sails easier. Can you imagine how big the sails are on a hundred and thirty-seven foot vessel? Those bad boys catch a bunch of wind. And we have to trim them by hand. Once again, it will take a gang of men heaving on the lines to bring them under control.

Going north to Los Angeles, we will motor sail, much like the Victory did in our trip north from Mexico. The wind and the current will be against us. I re-read Two Years Before the Mast a couple of years ago in preparation for our sail down the Pacific Coast.

Richard Henry Dana told of the brig Pilgrim’s sail from San Diego to San Francisco. It took them two months against the wind and current. Their return trip to San Diego took two weeks.

That’s the way it will be for us. We will motor north because it would take days of endless tacking to sail there. Then we’ll fly south when we participate in the schooner race.

I’m excited and anxious about this adventure. I’ve dreamed of sailing on such a vessel since I was a little kid, but I’m a little scared that my worn out, beat up old body won’t hold out. Of course, I made it from La Paz to San Diego, so why shouldn’t I be able to do this?

Anyway, when next I write, I’ll have all sorts of new adventures to tell you about. Until then, smooth sailing.


3 Comments

On To San Diego

8/12/2014

1 Comment

 
Picture
Okay, I've begged and pleaded. Now I'm on bended knee. I know that thousands of you have downloaded my books. Yet, I still only have 7 reviews for The Inside Passage.

I really need your help. If you've read The Inside Passage, please post a review on Amazon.com. I'm running a promotion next month and need at least 20 reviews to make it work.

To post your review, click here.
Thank you for your help.

Now, on with our story

PictureOdin checks out the bed at Hotel Mision de Santa Maria
He was born in the summer of his sixty-third year, coming home to a place he’d never been before. (Apologies to John Denver.) Well, not exactly, I’ve been here before, but we are home.

I have always said (for the last two years) that home is where we drop our anchor. It was weird being away from the Victory for the past month. It feels like we are home now, moved in again on the Victory in Chula Vista Marina at the south end of San Diego Bay.

As you know, we committed to watch Mary Lou’s villa in La Paz for the summer. After last summer, I swore that I would not spend another summer in La Paz. Then we met Mary Lou. We loved her house. Three lots fenced in with a high concrete wall, luscious gardens, a pool, a guest house with two bedrooms. She asked us if we would like to house sit for her for the summer. It was six month gig, from May to October.

We knew it got beastly hot in the summer. And we knew that Mary Lou didn’t have air conditioning. But, we did have a portable air conditioning unit on the boat, and we’d spend the afternoons in the pool. The big attraction was the yard. Odin would have all that room to run around instead of being cooped up on the deck of a boat.

Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans. Our little air conditioning unit could not keep Mary Lou’s bedroom cool. The temperatures in the house hit one hundred during the days. In the bedroom, we managed to keep it around ninety degrees. We had three big floor flans to move the air around and make it bearable.

Then there was the pool. It was a life saver in May when the temperatures soared into the hundreds, fully two months before expected. By July, the water in the pool reached ninety-four degrees. It was like swimming in bath water.

Probably the biggest disappointment was the yard. The whole reason we agreed to house sit was so Odin could have all that room to run around in. It was so hot, he wouldn’t go outside. He dashed into the yard to do his business, then came right back and lay down in front of the air conditioner. His mama didn’t raise any dummies.

We were really ready to get out of La Paz, but we made a commitment to Mary Lou. Thank God, she sold the house. The sale went through quickly and closed on August first. We were so out of there.

Dawn planned a leisurely drive from La Paz up to San Diego. We had made the drive several times in the past, always in two days. It was a killer. We decided to take an extra day, stay at a couple of nice hotels, and take our time driving north.

The first day was a seven hour drive from La Paz to Santa Rosalia. Santa Rosalia is the last town on the Sea of Cortez before the highway turns inland and eventually crosses over to the Pacific side of the peninsula.

The woman who took Dawn’s reservation told her to plan for about an hour in construction delays. She was right. Our seven hour drive took eight hours. We had several delays in the flat, straight stretch from La Paz to Ciudad Insurgentes. At that point, the road curls up into the mountains and we twisted, turned, went up and down to Santa Rosalia.

Normally, I wouldn’t dwell on the twisty mountain road, but Dawn had Odin in her car. I should mention that we both drove, since we had two vehicles to get north. When we moved into Casa Mary Lou, we took a bunch of stuff from the boat with us. Now we had to load it into the SUV and my Toyota pickup.

The GMC Yukon is Odin’s car, he just lets Dawn drive it for him. Dawn put the back seat down so Odin had lots of room. Then she loaded the back of the vehicle with stuff from the house. Odin still had lots of room. Dawn put the arm rest down in the front seat, making an opening between the two front seats just wide enough for Odin to sit in. He puts his hind end down on the arm rest, and sits with his front legs extended out. He refuses to lie down while the car is in motion.

Okay, you get the picture, Odin sitting, wedging himself into the opening between the seat backs. Now add in a twisty, torturous mountain road. He did not like the drive. Dawn spent the last three hours of the drive worrying about Odin and how he was doing.

Oh, yeah. I forgot to mention that the GMC Yukon is a truck. It really handles like a truck on a mountain road. My little Toyota pickup didn’t have much problem with the curvy road, but Dawn kept falling behind because she couldn’t take the curves very fast.

Add this all up, plus unscheduled stops for Odin to relieve himself, and she was a wreck by the time we reached Santa Rosalia.


PictureThe courtyard at Hotel Mision Santa Maria
Dawn made reservations at La Casitas hotel on the recommendation of some friends. It did not disappoint. The room was huge, with wide glass windows facing the sea. We entered off a balcony, perched on a cliff hanging thirty feet or so over the shore. When we entered the room, we were in an area about eight feet deep with a table, a love seat and some chairs. Up four steps was the main part of the bedroom. There was a huge king-sized bed, hand crafted armoire, then the bathroom with a huge Mexican shower.

The room was delightful and comfy, for about seventy dollars a night, US.  The best part was the view. From the bed, we could look out the windows right onto the sea. When I woke up in the morning, it was so still, I could have sworn it was a seascape painting.

We had a nice meal in town and quickly dropped off to sleep.

The next day’s drive was, if anything, worse than day one.

The scenery in Baja is spectacular. We are in the “rainy season.” That means that two or three times during the summer a tropical storm passes close enough by to drench the southern tip of the peninsula. Then the dessert blooms.

I am not a dessert person. I prefer green plants and flowers, but when the rains come, the dessert turns green. Dried up old sticks turn into beautiful trees. Grass springs up along side of the road. The cactus bloom. All of the weird, Dr. Seuss looking plants come to life.

As soon as we left Santa Rosalia, we turned west into the mountains. The road is one of the steepest, curviest mountain roads I’ve ever encountered. We climb from sea level to several thousand feet in the matter of a few miles. There are sheer drop offs from the road to the valley two thousand feet below, with no guard rails on the side of the road. There are no turnoffs for slow vehicles and it is impossible to pass a truck if you’re unlucky enough to get behind one.

After we reached the summit, the road straightened and leveled out until we got to Guerrero Negro. Then we turned north and were back into twisty mountain roads. Dawn was a mess when we arrived at San Quintín.

Another day of winding up and down the mountain trails did nothing to calm her nerves.

We stayed the second night at San Quintín. Once again, Dawn found us a nice hotel on friends’ recommendations. The Mission Santa Maria Hotel looked like something out of a Zorro movie.

There was a large courtyard with a tile covered fountain. Arcades surrounded the courtyard with the lobby to one side and a nice restaurant to the other. The food was good and the prices reasonable. The Sunday morning brunch buffet was marvelous.

We loafed around the hotel until about noon on Sunday. No point in getting going too early, we wanted to cross the border in the evening when the traffic had settled down.

The road between Ensenada and Tijuana crumbled and fell into the sea during an earthquake last spring. There is another road still open, but it goes through every little whistle stop town along the way, is narrow and twisty. I opted to take the cut off to the Tecate border crossing.

We had not been this way before. The scenery was beautiful. We drove through rich farm country and vast vineyards. This is Mexico’s wine growing region.

The drive added about an hour to our trip. However, I thought, we’d make that up with a quick border crossing.

Boy was I wrong. We had been told about how sleepy the Tecate border crossing was. Never any traffic.  Much easier to get across than at Tijuana.

We waited in line for almost three hours to get across.

Then, we were way out in the middle of nowhere. Once again, we had to negotiate twisty mountain roads to get back to civilization, this time in the dark.

We finally rolled into the marina parking lot at about one in the morning, tired, sore and with raw nerves. But we were home.

The Victory welcomed us home. By the time we got all of our stuff unloaded (the security guard warned us about leaving it in the cars. They’ve had a lot of theft problems.), it was four thirty in the morning.

But we’re here. Back in the USA. Ready to start the newest chapter in our lives. I don’t know how long we’ll be here, but we need to get some medical problems taken care of. Then who knows? We’ll figure out where we’re going next then.


1 Comment

Log of the Victory - We Made It!

8/5/2014

2 Comments

 
It's a new month and we're in a new country. Here is our last day of the epic journey from La Paz to San Diego and a wrap up.

Now I can go back to important things, like finishing The Mexican Connection.

Speaking of writing things, I can still use your help. I need reviews. It doesn't matter which of my books you've read, I need reviews. I'm getting ready for a September promotion and need at least 20 reviews of The Inside Passage. I only have 7. Surely 13 of you stalwart readers can spare five or ten minutes to write a review on Amazon.com or GoodReads.

Sunday, July 6th, 2014 - Day 11

PictureSan Diego comes into view
Back in the USA, back in the USA. Sing that to the tune of Springsteen’s “Born in the USA.”

We made Point Loma, the entrance to the channel for San Diego Bay at about 10 am. After eleven days at sea and more than a thousand miles, we’re finally here.

For most of our time at sea, we have been alone. The occasional albatross or dolphin visited us, but there have been few boats and no human contact.

Now, it’s rush hour on I-5. There are boats everywhere. The channel is full of them. Big boats, little boats, speed boats, fishing boats, sailboats, you name it. (That sounds a little bit like a Dr. Seuss book, doesn’t it?)

I can’t believe the traffic. There are traffic laws for boats, just like there are for cars. The only problem is that most of the idiots out on boats don’t know them. You can’t depend on the other boat to obey the rules, so the main rule is “Don’t hit anybody.”

We weave through the plethora of boats and make our way to the Customs dock. It’s Sunday, remember. As captain, I’m the only one allowed to leave the ship.

I trudge up to the Police Dock office and call Customs. They are supposed to send someone down to clear us into the country.

I get a recorded message “Our office hours are 9 am to 5 pm, Monday through Friday.”

How am I supposed to get us cleared in if no one’s there? I call their emergency number and get a message.  “I’m away from the phone right now, leave a message.”

I leave a message.


PictureEntering San Diego Bay
My US cell phone doesn’t work. I asked the girls to suspend my number to save money. Now I have to call Verizon to get it turned back on. Thankfully, that is a simple process.

We wait. And we wait. We are tied up at the police dock right next to the holding tank pump out station. A large harbor cruise vessel wants to come in and pump out. We can’t move. We are waiting for Customs. Finally, the cruise vessel gives up and goes away.

An hour passes, then two hours. Finally, Customs calls me back. They are checking in a Japan Airlines flight at Lindbergh Field. They’ll come to the dock when they are done.

Another half hour passes and finally, two CBP agents arrive.

They were very nice and polite. It was the easiest border crossing I’ve ever made. They didn’t confiscate our food. But it took forever for them to get there. I guess a sailboat entering the country with four people on board is not a high priority.

We fought our way through the vessel traffic and made it to the fuel dock. We took on 199 gallons of Diesel. That, along with the thirty gallons we put in the tank in San Jose, added up to 229 gallons of fuel for the trip. Our tanks hold 300 gallons, so we had plenty of reserve when we got here.

Total fuel costs: $996. Ouch.

Back out into the bay and in all that traffic. We motored south to Chula Vista.

We found our marina and slip easily. I have been here before. As a matter of fact, the Victory was in this marina when I bought her.

I pulled into the assigned slip and several marina residents and the dock master were there to handle our lines. Fortunately, it was a smooth landing. We were headed directly into the wind and that helped.

When I checked in, the dock master asked for my license. I handed him my Coast Guard captain’s license. I didn’t realize he meant my driver’s license.

“A real licensed captain, huh?” the dock master said. “That explains why you made such a good landing.”

I just kept quiet and accepted the praise.

Friday, July 11th, 2014 - In La Paz

PictureThe Victory in her her home
I’m back in La Paz now. KC and Vienne flew back to Spokane safely and Sam is home in Seattle. The trip back to La Paz was easy, but I can’t say “I’m home.” My home is tied up to the dock in San Diego.

It’s hot in La Paz. I’m anxious to get back to the mild temperatures of San Diego. Dawn wants to buy a second air conditioner for the house here. We made a commitment to Mary Lou that we would stay here through the summer, but I’m really questioning the wisdom of that decision.

The crew of the Victory spent all day Monday cleaning her up after her long voyage. On Tuesday we went to the Birch Aquarium at Scripps Institute in San Diego. Wednesday I spent cleaning and organizing and putting away. I needed to get Victory ready for her two-month hiatus.

As I cleaned and put things away, I sang “I’ll See You In September” to myself over and over. I am sad at leaving her alone. I imagine this is how Dawn felt when we left Odin in San Francisco and San Diego. I want to get back to her and make sure she’s all right.

My friend Ron will watch her for me. He has a boat in the marina there in Chula Vista and is there every weekend. He’ll go down to the Victory and make sure the mooring lines are OK and the bilges are dry. If something bad happens, I guess I’ll have to drive up, but I don’t anticipate any problems.

Now it’s time to turn to writing. I have to get my short story Mirror Image ready for publication. I have the cover done, but I need to format the inside of the book.

Then I have to complete The Mexican Connection. I’m about half-way done with that. But once the manuscript is complete, the process just begins. I need to have it edited, proof-read, formatted, etc. It’s a long complicated process, not for the faint of heart.

So, for the next couple of months I will put the Victory and sailing out of my mind and focus on the business of writing.

I hope you have enjoyed this little tale and that everyone has a great summer.


2 Comments

    Author

    Pendelton C. Wallace is the best selling author of the Ted Higuera Series and the Catrina Flaherty Mysteries. 

    The Inside Passage, the first in the Ted Higuera series debuted on April 1st,  2014. Hacker for Hire, The Mexican Connection, Bikini Baristas, The Cartel Strikes  Back, and Cyberwarefare are the next books in the series.


    The Catrina Flaherty Mysteries currently consist of four stories, Mirror Image, Murder Strikes Twice, The Chinatown Murders, and the Panama Murders. Expect to see Cat bounce around the Caribbean for a while.

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