Pendelton C. Wallace  Author, Adventurer
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Those Radical Sixties

8/24/2017

3 Comments

 
Continuing with the theme of everything old is new again, Here's a story from the turbulent Sixties. This is another story in my continuing series about growing up in the back end of a Mexican Restaurant in Eugene, Oregon.

​I thought with all the social turmoil the country is going through today that this story may be appropriate.
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My father, Blue Water Charlie
We opened El Sombrero in September of 1964. Located on the edge of the University of Oregon campus, we attracted a very intellectual crowd.

Papa was the best educated man I ever met. He finished high school in Texas but, as a poor farm boy, couldn’t afford to go to college.

There was no topic that didn’t interest Papa. He read everything he could get his hands on, from history to literature to poetry. He had vast amounts of Shakespeare, the Bible and poetry committed to memory. On any given day, you could count on him to quote Robert Browning, Shakespeare or John Masefield to you.

Papa’s sharp intelligence and vast span of knowledge served him well with the intellectual crowd. The university professors loved to come in for lunch and debate Papa about the issues of the day or the collapse of the Roman Empire. University students found Papa a willing resource. They came in and talked to him about their assignments and he told them where to look for books and documents to research.

Papa was also wildly radical in his politics. In the Thirties, he was a union organizer in San Francisco for the Longshoreman’s Union. As he worked on union activities he was exposed to the American Communist Party. Like millions of Americans during that time, he was greatly disillusioned with our system that appeared to be collapsing. The Soviet Union marketed themselves to be a “workers’ paradise” and Papa was always the champion for the working man.  

A couple of weeks before we opened the El Sombrero, congress passed the Gulf of Tonkin resolution. It was an earthshaking event that went largely unnoticed in sleepy Oregon.

Within a few years, the war in Viet Nam escalated. We had over half a million troops in the country and disillusionment in the war was spreading at home. Eugene and the University of Oregon were on the cutting edge of the Peace Movement.
​
The U of O has always been a liberal school, but during the Sixties, Eugene became home to a large hippy population. It remains one of the last bastions of hippydom in the country.
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In high school, I was embroiled in the Viet Nam war debate. I was a lone voice expressing opposition to the war when I was a sophomore, but by the time I was a senior, I was part of a loud and growing group of students.

El Sombrero became a hang out for the anti-war crowd. Every afternoon, after the lunch crowd dissipated, students, teachers and hippies gathered around tables in our restaurant plotting new demonstrations to show The Establishment that they could not continue to ignore the voice of the people. It was an exciting time and most young people on campus were involved in either pro or anti-government demonstrations.

During the height of the debate, the U of O invited Huey Newton, the founder of the Black Panthers, to speak.

Early one morning Papa was setting up when a group of young black men, dressed in black jeans, T-shirts, leather jackets and berets entered the restaurant. He immediately recognized Huey. Papa grabbed a couple of menus and ran out to greet them.

“Good morning!”

“Hey, Whitey, what you got to eat here?  You got any soul food?” Huey said in a loud voice full of disdain.

“No, this is a Mexican restaurant. I can fix you a great Mexican dinner.”

“Hey, Whitey, you own this place?

“Yes.”

“So you’re exploitin’ these poor workers. Just like you exploited my people for three hundred years. Just like you made us cotton slaves.”

Papa snapped. “Have you ever been a cotton slave?” he roared at Huey.

“No.”

“Well I have! I know what its like to hoe the cotton from sun up to sun down. I know what it’s like dragging a hundred-pound bag of cotton down row after row in the hundred-degree heat. Don’t you ever dare talk to me about being a cotton slave.”

Huey backed down, ordered breakfast and quietly left.

The world was in turmoil. It was 1968 and the presidential election was in full swing. Hubert Humphrey made an appearance at Hayward Field and I skipped a day of school to join the protests. Bobby Kennedy came to town. He was campaigning hard in the Oregon primary. His motorcade went down Thirteenth Avenue, in front of El Sombrero and Mama stepped outside to snap off some pictures of the historic event.
​

A week later Bobby was dead.
​

My world shattered when Martin Luther King Jr. was shot. Mama let me skip school to watch his funeral. I couldn’t think of anything positive to live for.
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Anti-War Protestors
Eugene exploded. A group of students raided the draft board one night. All of the records were dragged from the filing cabinets and set afire in the street. A massive bon fire lit the night. Not long afterward, a protest at the University of Oregon chapter of the ROTC turned violent. Police were called in and a full-scale riot ensued. The students managed to set the ROTC building on fire and burned it to the ground.

A massive candle-light parade was planned. Students and protestors from all over the West Coast and the country came to Eugene to participate. Tens of thousands of people filled the streets carrying banners and placards. Young girls wore tie-dyed dresses, and flowers and feathers in their hair. The young men sported beards and long hair.

In the front window of El Sombrero was a large psychedelic poster announcing the upcoming protest. As was his want, Papa was in the thick of the planning. In the afternoons and late at night, the protest planners sat in our restaurant and plotted mischief over cups of coffee and plates of tacos.

The march started at the University and wound down Thirteenth Avenue to downtown Eugene where speakers further incited the crowds. Nervous city fathers decided not to issue a parade permit. The lack of a permit didn’t slow the protest organizers a bit. The march went on.

Mama and Papa closed the restaurant that night to support the protest. They attended the rally on campus, but eschewed the march, they had to get up the next morning to open the restaurant. I walked the route with my candle in hand.

The Eugene police department was woefully understaffed to handle demonstrations on this scale. They made a presence, but were overwhelmed by the sheer size of the crowd. They stood helplessly by while the march began.

Within a few blocks the march turned ugly. Radical leaders incited the crowd. Big business was a target of their anger. First someone wailed about the evils of the military-industrial complex. Then we heard about how The Establishment was destroying our freedoms. There was construction going on down the street and the site had stacks of bricks in front of it. This was unfortunate timing.

Someone picked up a brick and hurled it through the window of the US Bank branch across the street from El Sombrero. The anger of the crowd exploded. Soon bricks were flying through the air. The police moved in, but were overpowered by the crowd. The march moved down the street shattering windows, pulling displays down and generally making mayhem in the streets.

By all standards, the protestors thought that the march was a great success. It ended in front of the Federal Courthouse in downtown Eugene. Speakers with megaphones harangued the crowd late into the night. The sweet smell of pot filled the air. As the wee hours of the morning approached the crowd began to dissipate.
Some of the mob slipped off to grab a few winks at their crash pads or their old lady’s house. Some just found grassy spots along the downtown sidewalks on which to collapse. 

The sun rose to reveal the extent of the chaos. Merchants and office workers returned to claim downtown, but there was a trail of damage where the march had passed. Hardly a business was unaffected. Windows had been smashed, storefronts looted, banks and insurance offices fouled.

When Papa arrived at El Sombrero to begin his set up for the day, the street was in ruins. It looked like downtown Berlin in 1945. The pavement was littered with broken glass, articles of clothing dragged from display windows, books from the nearby bookstore, goods from the little drug store down the street. There was no rhyme or reason to the destruction, the protesters were just expressing their helplessness and anger.

El Sombrero survived the night without a scratch. As the march wound past our restaurant, a group Black Panthers formed a human shield in front of our establishment.

“Hey, man, they’re cool,” they told the angry protesters as they approached, bricks and rocks in hand. In spite of the anger and destruction of that night, we remained unscathed.
​
Picture
The Human Shield
3 Comments

Our Restaurants

8/7/2017

3 Comments

 
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Your author, just before the move to Oregon
I’ve been writing about growing up in a Mexican restaurant for the past few weeks. It occurred to me that I should have started at the beginning. How did we get into the business anyway?

When Mama and Papa moved back to Southern California from San Juan Island in Washington State, Mama went to work at a Mexican restaurant called La Fonda in Santa Ana. She worked at La Fonda for twelve years. During that time, she developed a bug to own her own restaurant.

Francis and Nicki, the owners, took to Mama, as everyone does. They showed her the ropes of running a restaurant. Before we moved to Oregon, Papa went to work for Francis for six months, for free, to learn how to cook Mexican food. The food Francis served was much more sophisticated than the food Grandma taught Mama to cook in their little house in Costa Mesa. There are also different techniques and equipment used when cooking large volumes in a restaurant than those used cooking in a home kitchen.  

We moved to Oregon in 1961 with the express purpose of opening a Mexican restaurant. Oregon was virgin territory, Papa reasoned. There would be no competition. At the time we opened our first restaurant, Del Norte, there were three other Mexican restaurants that we knew about in the northwest, Panchos in Seattle, Morenos in Eugene and one in Portland. (To read a more detailed account of these incidents, read Blue Water & Me, Tall Tales of Adventures With My Father.)

At the time, Mexican food was not widely known or accepted in Oregon. Most customers complained, before they ate the first bite, that “Mexican food is too hot.” I remember people ordering “tay-cohs” (tacos), because the language was so unfamiliar to them. In the early years, we sold more hamburgers and BLTs than we sold tacos and enchiladas. Chile rellenos were considered extremely exotic fare. I watched Mama almost singlehandedly built a market for Mexican food in Oregon.

​“I don’t like Mexican food,” customers complained. This happened most often when a group came into the restaurant because one or two people were craving Mexican food and the rest of the group were unfamiliar with it.

“I’ll make you a deal," Mama said to them. "Let me order for you, if you don’t like it, I’ll order a steak for you and let you have it for free.” No one could resist the lure of a free steak, so they let Mama order for them. I don’t remember ever having to cook a free steak.  

Del Norte, our first restaurant, was not a rousing success. We lived in Springfield at the time, next door to Frank and Hank’s tavern. Frank and Hank’s was in a large, old Quonset-hut type of building on the McKenzie Highway east of town. There was a little mom and pop diner in the same building as the tavern. When I was in the fifth grade, the owner of the diner died and Frank and Hank went looking for a new tenant. They wanted a restaurant in the building so their tavern customers could order food. If there was food to eat, the customers would hang around the tavern longer, drinking beer.

Papa made a sweet deal with the widow of the diner owner. He bought all the furniture, fixtures and equipment, negotiated a ridiculous lease with Frank and Hank and Del Norte was born. We put a couple of serapes and sombreros on the walls, a metate in the window and opened the doors.
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The metate in our window
When we moved from California, it was with the express intent of opening a Mexican restaurant. To that end, Papa bought a tortilla machine from the J. C. Ford Manufacturing Company and we trucked it to Oregon with us. Papa refinished the garage at our new house in Springfield and installed the tortilla machine.

We couldn’t have a Mexican restaurant without fresh tortillas. At the time, the only Mexican food available in Oregon was canned tortillas and tamales. There wasn’t even any frozen Mexican food in the stores. Papa had to make a special deal with our wholesale grocer to get them to “import” pinto beans and canned green chiles. It took several years to find a source for a good chili powder.


Del Norte limped along for several months, then there was a gang fight at the tavern next door. A motorcycle gang got into a fight with the loggers that regularly habituated the tavern and the fight spilled over into our restaurant. Furniture and windows were broken. That was it, Papa said, “I’m not going to raise my children in that environment,” and told the landlord that he was breaking the lease. We shut down the restaurant.

A couple of years later, opportunity again presented itself. Mama was waitressing at a little restaurant on the edge of the University of Oregon campus for a man named Mr. Spiller. Across Thirteenth Avenue was Tommy’s Inn. Tommy and Mr. Spiller were bitter rivals. Mr. Spiller always ran across the street when it was slow to see if Tommy had customers or to see what kind of specials Tommy had that day.

Mama came home with news that Tommy dropped over dead in his restaurant. The doors were locked because his widow had no expertise at running a restaurant. Papa seized the opportunity. He called the landlord and negotiated taking over Tommy’s lease. Then he called the widow and bought Tommy’s furniture, fixtures and equipment. Thus, El Sombrero was born.

When we owned Del Norte, Papa commissioned a sign company to make a giant plywood sombrero for him to use as our sign. When Del Norte closed, Papa took the sign down and stored it in our garage. As we were getting ready to open the new restaurant, Papa took the sign out and had it repainted. We needed a name for the new restaurant and Mama and Papa reasoned that since our sign was a giant sombrero, we should name the restaurant “El Sombrero.”

In the real estate business, there are three rules: Location, Location and Location. Mama and Papa hit the jackpot. Many of the University’s students and faculty were from California. They came to Oregon and were doomed to four years of undergraduate work without Mexican food. As soon as we opened the doors, there was a line to get a table.

Lunch time was particularly busy because the entire campus had one hour to find a place to grab a bite before returning to classes. By eleven thirty in the morning we were packed and stayed that way until one thirty in the afternoon. In those days, we were selling a lunch plate for ninety-nine cents.

Dinner was a more leisurely affair. Customer started drifting in around five in the afternoon and by six thirty or seven we were in full swing of the dinner rush. Dinners started at a buck forty-nine.

We ran El Sombrero for five years on the campus until our lease expired. The landlord wanted to tear our building down and put up a new building, so we had to move.

We moved El Sombrero to a location on Eleventh Avenue in downtown Eugene. After five years of successful operation, we took our loyal following with us and were equally as busy in the downtown location. By this time, Papa had mostly dropped out of the restaurant and was tending his real estate business. He still went in every morning to set up and make the soup, but was gone by the time the lunch rush hit. Mama and I were running the restaurant pretty much by ourselves.
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The monster in our garage
This was when I became the “kitchen tyrant.” I got the nickname because, at eighteen years old I was very full of myself and thought I knew everything. (It’s amazing that the older we get, the dumber we get.) Mama ran the day shift and I ran the night shift. The power went to my head. I told everybody what to do and how to do it. I don’t know how they stood working for me. I was telling employees twice my age who had been doing the job since before I was born how to do their jobs.

Papa tired of the restaurant business, he always needed a new challenge every couple of years, and Mama got tired of running the restaurant by herself. They sold El Sombrero to a nice Mexican family and moved on.

They didn’t move very far or very fast. The food court at the Valley River Center, Eugene’s first shopping mall, just outside of town on the Willamette River, lost a tenant. The manager of the food court called Mama and asked her if she would like to put a Mexican restaurant in the food court. The Olé Mexican Restaurant was born.

We were employees of the food court company who was the tenant of Valley River Center, but they pretty much left us alone to run the restaurant. It was buffet style and we cooked trays of enchiladas, tamales and chile rellenos and kept them in hotel pans on a steam line. This was no way to serve Mexican food and quality suffered.

We were at the Olé Mexican Restaurant for a couple of years then the food court company decided that they wanted to remodel and put in an up-scale English-style pub. Mama retired again and I was looking for a job.

About this time I had had enough of college and dropped out. I worked for a short time for a family friend at his fast food restaurant when opportunity came knocking again. A family twenty-four-hour restaurant on Franklin Boulevard, the main drag into town from the south, had gone broke. The parent company folded and the landlord was looking for someone to pick up their lease. We stepped in and opened La Posada Mexican Restaurant.

This was a big upgrade for us, being in a large free-standing building on a busy highway. Papa and I redid the building to look like an inn along the El Camino Real in Mexico or California. We stuccoed the exterior and built a series of arches around the outside of the building. Papa installed vegas, the round ends of the rafters that stick out over the side of the building, to give it a more authentic touch. As a crowing touch, Papa built a brightly painted ox-cart to sit in our parking lot under the sign.

La Posada was a huge success. We easily did three, four and sometimes five times as much business as we had at El Sombrero. Mama and Papa built the restaurant for me, but I’m embarrassed to say that I have a very short attention span. Like Papa, I can’t seem to keep interested in one thing for very long. I soon decided that I needed to go back and finish college. I took less and less interest in the restaurant and after I graduated from college, Mama and Papa sold the restaurant and retired again.

My college major was in history, with special emphasis in Latin American Studies. This qualified me to work in restaurants. After college, I got a job working for a regional restaurant chain headquartered in Salem, Oregon. I got restless living in Eugene and put in for a transfer to the Seattle area.

They moved me to Seattle where I met and married Connie. As I said before, I have a short attention span, and when I didn’t get quickly promoted to district manager I lost interest in the corporate world and decided to open my own Mexican restaurant.

I found a location near the King Dome in south Seattle and opened El Mercado Mexican Restaurant. Mama and Papa, bless their hearts, moved to Seattle to help me get started. El Mercado did a great lunch business but little dinner business. We were in an area of town where nobody lived. When there were events at the King Dome, like baseball, football or basketball games, we were busy. When there was nothing going on, we were dead. We didn’t get rich but we did make a living and achieve critical acclaim. In 1981 The Seattle Weekly named us the best Mexican restaurant in Seattle.

At El Mercado, I let my creativity run wild. We experimented with all kinds of new dishes and took a couple of trips to Mexico to research the cuisine. I made a study of Mexican food and like to say I earned my Masters of Mexican Cuisine degree there. However, I again grew restless and sold the restaurant.

Meanwhile, in Eugene, Mama and Papa got bit by the bug again. They open Casa Don Carlos in a little building that had once been a house in North Eugene. Casa Don Carlos had a nice, homey feel and they did well, but it was mostly a hobby for Mama. At this time, my brother Jim got involved in the business for a short while until he decided that he didn’t want to be a restaurateur. Once again, when Jim lost interest, Mama and Papa decided to retire.

Mama wasn’t very good at retirement. It wasn’t long before she was opening the Tortilla Flats restaurant in the Fifth Avenue Market in Eugene. The Market was a collection of hippy/New Age type shops and restaurants in an old cannery building close to the river. As usual, people flocked to Mama’s restaurant. This was mostly a hobby for Mama because she didn’t want to work too hard. Finally, Papa’s health was failing and Mama decided to retire for good and tend to Papa full time.
​
And now, you know the rest of the story. I can get back to telling you stories of the crazy things that happened to me growing up.
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After all, the restaurant was named El Sombrero
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    Author

    Pendelton C. Wallace is the best selling author of the Ted Higuera Series and the Catrina Flaherty Mysteries. 

    The Inside Passage, the first in the Ted Higuera series debuted on April 1st,  2014. Hacker for Hire, The Mexican Connection, Bikini Baristas, The Cartel Strikes  Back, and Cyberwarefare are the next books in the series.


    The Catrina Flaherty Mysteries currently consist of four stories, Mirror Image, Murder Strikes Twice, The Chinatown Murders, and the Panama Murders. Expect to see Cat bounce around the Caribbean for a while.

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